Lenin Peak 7134m

Best season: July - August

Mountaineering Expedition

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek

Days

Itinerary

Accommodation

1.

International flight to Bishkek.

-

2.

Arrival in Bishkek. Morning Domestic Flight to Osh.

3* Hotel

3.

Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).

Base Camp Tents

4-18.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

 

19.

Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.

3* Hotel

20.

Domestic Flight to Bishkek. Transfer to Hotel.

3* Hotel

21.

International flight from Bishkek.

-

 

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh

Days

Itinerary

Accommodation

1.

International flight to Osh (directly from Russia and China).

-

2.

Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).

Base Camp Tents

3-17.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

 

18.

Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.

3* Hotel

19.

Departure by morning flight.

-

Note: Duration of programme can be changed by request. 

Route description:

Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier for a further 5km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (“Frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Some relatively steep (45º+) parts of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section the traverse to Camp 2 begins. Camp 2 is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat. 

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harnesses are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400m where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required. Above this plateau is a short, very steep snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope, though an ice axe may be necessary. Care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre-summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit, including return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

Conditions and notes:

  • Prices are valid for groups booked and fully paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier. In the case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) an extra charge of US$70 per person is charged for formalities.
  • For individuals and groups of up to 4 climbers transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh is provided on a shared basis and the day of transfer is variable depending on demand. The departure schedule of transfers should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15th or departure after August 20th an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
  • Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal mountaineering gear and for choosing their own tactics for ascent.
  • Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserve the right to change airfares without prior notice (ITMC has no control over this and is not responsible for any changes or inconvenience incurred).
  • The Domestic Flight baggage allowance is 15kg per person, overweight  in excess of this is charged at US$1/kg.
  • If expedition groups prefer to send mountaineering gear/equipment to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. Please contact ITMC directly for further detail..
  • Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum cover of US$40,000

Prices 2017

Standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days): USD 1050

Discount for long-term partners - USD 140 per person

Discount for group of 10 people or more - USD 100 per person

Standard program Osh-Osh (19 days): USD 900 per person

Discount for long-term partner - USD 100 per person

Discount for groups of 10 people or more -USD 50 per person 

Budget program: USD 300 per person 

Discount for long-term partner - USD 25 per person

Discount for groups of 10 people or more -USD 15 per person

Services included in standard package  Bishkek-Bishkek (USD 1050):

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration with local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • RDomestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (Return)
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh *)
  • Airport transfers in Bishkek on outward travel
  • Accommodation:
  •  --in Bishkek: Hotel 3* - for 1 night (including breakfast)        
  • --in Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (excluding breakfast)
  • --in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
  •  --in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in Base Camp (3700m)
  • Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Summer Shower in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Mess tent / Yurt in Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client) 

Services included in standard package  Osh-Osh (USD 900):

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
  • Accommodation:
  • --in Osh: Guest House - 1 night excluding breakfast
  • --in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
  • --in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in Base Camp (3700m)
  • Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Summer Shower in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Mess tent / Yurt in Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client)  

Services included in budget package  (USD 300):

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
  • Accommodation:
  • - - in Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 6 nights
  • - - in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents – for 4 nights
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides

 

NB: Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier. In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks before arrival) extra charges for formalities of US$ 70 per person are applied.

 

Services available on extra cost (not included in standard programs)

  • Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh.
  • Domestic return flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek  US$ 100 Return  .  

NB:Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fares without prior notice (ITMC has no control over or responsibility for this). 

  • Accommodation in Bishkek:
  • 3* Hotel, Standard Twin/Double room US$ 70-85, Standard Single room US$ 60-75 incl. Breakfast

    Note: Prices for 2*, 4*, 5* Hotels, Guest Houses and Apartments are available on request.

  • Meals in Osh and Bishkek
     

Services available on extra payment in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:

  • Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m):                  US$ 25 per person per day
  • Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m):   US$ 40 per person per day
  • Dehydrated meals for ascent: by price list:       US$ 15-25 per person per day
  • Bar
  • Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type:   US$ 10 per new canister (230gr), US$ 6 per refilled canister

Note:Empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp – this is the client’s reponsibility

Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):

  •  Mountain Guide: US$ 2500 per programme
  •  Mountain Guide trained according  to programme of UIAGM standards: US$ 3500 per  programme

NB: We recommend a maximum guide to client ratio of 1:3. For groups of 4 clients two guides are recommended. A minimum of US$950 is charged for Mountain Guides for any number of working days, or if the Guide’s employment

is terminated by the client during the first 5 days.

  • Horse (BC to ABC, 4200m): US$ 3 per kg (up to 50 kg)

Regular porterage service prices:

  • ABC (4200m) - Camp 2 (5100m)       US$  9 per kg (up to 15 kg)
  • Camp 2 (5200m) - Camp 3 (6100m)  US$ 18 per kg (up to 15 kg)
  • Camp 3 (6100m) - Camp 4 (6400m)  US$ 26 per kg (up to 10 kg)

Other service prices:

  • Rental of satellite phone for ascent (a damage or loss Safety Deposit of US$ 400 is required):       US$ 10 per day

The US$400 Safety Deposit is refundable provided the phone is returned undamaged and fully functional)

  • Thuraya airtime, when using satellite phone for calls and sms, is charged according to usage, in addition to the rental price.
  • A satellite phone is available for use at ABC, calls cost US$ 4/minute and SMS US$2 per SMS.  There is no rental charge for use of this phone on site at ABC but payment is required for any calls made or sms sent

 

Payment

  • To guarantee your booking full payment for the confirmed trip should be made 8 weeks prior the 1st day of the trip. Failing to pay in time may result in full cancellation.
  • All service fees charged by banks or other financial institutions for payment processing must be paid by the Sender.

Cancellations and charges

There is no fee for changes or cancellations when made more than 21 days prior to arrival, but any actual expenses incurred relating to documents such as visa support, permits, or any other necessary official paperwork, will have to be paid for by the client;

  • There is a fee of '10% of ordered services' for changes or cancellations when made 15 to 21 days prior to arrival.
  • There is a fee of '50% of ordered services' for cancellations when made 7 to 14 days prior to arrival.
  • There is a fee of '100% of ordered services' for cancellations when made less than 7 days prior to arrival.
  • High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C)
  • hiking boots
  • snow gaiters
  • crampons
  • base-layer
  • down jacket
  • windproof & waterproof jacket with hood
  • warm & waterproof gloves or mitts
  • mountaineering or climbing harness
  • climbing helmet
  • karabiners (2 x screwgate)
  • prussic loops x 2 (5m / 16ft of 6mm cord)
  • rope
  • ice axe (light, not technical)
  • sleeping bag (up to -25C)
  • thermarest or similar sleeping mat
  • high altitude tent
  • rucksack (40L minimum)
  • head-torch
  • sunglasses
  • trekking poles
  • gas-stove and kitchen/dining set
  • medical aid kit

 

Booking

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  • Acclimatization programme for Lenin Peak in the Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier
  • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak
  • Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, at Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others