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TSA-2 Pobeda Peak 7439 m, 26 days PDF Print E-mail

Duration: 26 days

  • Ascent to the highest point of Tien-Shan Mountains
  • Possibility to combine ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (7010m)
  • Accommodation in mountain huts or Base Camp tents on South Inylchek Glacier

Best season: July - August

          Pobeda Peak (7439 m) was geographically discovered in 1943, but not successfully climbed until 1956, following tragic ends to many of previous attempts. Following V. Abalakov's initial ascent, an expedition led by I.Erokhin in 1956 was the first to climb it via the Chon-Teren Glacier and in 1970 A.Ryabukhin's expedition achieved the first complete traverse of the massif from east to west. Pobeda can be a savage mountain. Generally obscured by thick cloud even during periods of relatively good weather, it is subject to unpredictable and violent snowstorms and extreme winds that blow from the Takla Makan desert. There are 8 established routes on Pobeda Peak, the most difficult being on its northern slopes.

          The most frequently climbed route (established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is to West Pobeda Peak (6918m) via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). ITMC offers this route although ascent tactics varies according to the level of experience of expedition members and conditions prevailing on the mountain. Any aspect of the programme may be adjusted to suit clients preferences.

  • From South Inylchek Base Camp (3995 m) it is 15 km approach along the Zviozdochka Glacier to reach the northern wall of Pobeda Peak.
  • Ascend along the icefall to the Dikiy Pass (5200 m) where Camp 1 can be set. Fixed ropes can be used for protection when crossing difficult sections.
  • Continue ascent along the ridge. Camp 2 should be set up at the altitude of about 5800 m, just before the rocky section. A snow cave is often established here, affording protection from cold winds that blow from the west.
  • From Camp 2 (5800 m) ascend goes along the snow, ice and rock ridge to the summit of West Pobeda Peak (6918m). Camp 3 can be set on the Chinese side, which is more protected from the wind. It is recommendable to use a snow cave.
  • From Camp 3 (6900 m) it is a 4 km traverse of the west ridge to the summit.
  • Descent follows the same route and takes two days.

 

Days: Itinerary:  
Arrival in Karakol. Hotel or Guest House 
Transfer Karakol - Maidadyr (170 km, ca. 4 hours), helicopter flight Maidadyr - Base Camp (ca. 30-35 minutes). Base Camp tents or Mountain hut 
3-24 Acclimatization, climbing (trekking).  Base Camp tents or Mountain hut 
25 Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Maidadyr. Transfer to Karakol.  Hotel or Guest House 
26 Departure. 

 

Service included in basic package:
- Return land transfers by cross country vehicle (4-6 WD) from Karakol to Maidadyr
- Full board during 10 days in the Base Camp
- Border permit
- Consultations of experienced Guides
- Accommodation:
- - in Hotel** or guest house in Karakol (2 nights) including breakfast
- - in huts or tents in the Base Camp (10 nights)

Extra to the basic package:
- Helicopter flights Maidadyr - Base Camp - Maidadyr
- Return land transfers from Almaty or Bishkek to Karakol
- All personal equipment (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, gas cylinders and gas-stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
- Helicopter show-flight over the peaks
- Helicopter transfer to the beginning of a route and to the lower camp for rest
- Service of Guides, porters
- Kyrgyz visa support
- Registration in OVIR

Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
3) ITMC provides with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
4) Usually airline company that provides helicopters for work in area of South Inylchek Glacier, confirms actual price for helicopter service just before the season (May).
5) Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person).
6) Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek Glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31 and sometimes till September 10.
7) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12000 .