Duration: 21 days

• Ascent to one of the splendid mountains in the world Khan-Tengri - the "Lord of Spirits"
• Dramatic views of a huge, snow-white pyramid
• Possible to include ascent to Pobeda Peak (7439m)
• Accommodation in mountain huts or Base Camp tents on South Inylchek Glacier

Best season: July - August

          Khan-Tengri (7010 m) was first climbed by the Ukrainian alpinist M. Pogrebetskiy in 1931, from the south side which is now known as Classic Route. Since then 21 routes on four aspects of the mountain have been explored, but possibilities for new routes has not yet been exhausted. Khan-Tengri Mt can be climbed from either South or North Inylchek Glaciers, on which separate base camps are located. ITMC owns one of the main base camps on South Inylchek Glacier at its junction with the Zviozdochka Glacier, below Gorky Peak (6050 m). The altitude of this base camp is 3995m.

          Our standard programme is for ascent on Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier. Following some initial acclimatisation, usual tactics for ascent along this route is as follows:

• Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4300m). 2-4 hours. It is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day.
• Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371m), especially during day time, we advise to start very early for this next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovski Glacier icefall to its upper part. Camp 2 can be set just below the west col at the altitude of about 5900m. There is usually a snow cave at this point, that may be used (on a "first come, first served" basis).
• During period of acclimatisation two nights should be spent at Camp 2 and climbers should ascend to 6200m - 6500m before descending to base camp for rest.
• From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.
• Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds.
• From Camp 3 route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes.
• Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day.

Scheme of programme:

Services included in basic package:
- Return land transfers by off-road vehicle (4-6 WD) from Karakol to Maydadyr
- Full board during 10 days in Base Camp
- Border permit
- Consultations of experienced Guides
- Accommodation:
- - in Hotel** or Guest House in Karakol (2 nights) including breakfast
- - in huts or tents in the Base Camp (10 nights)

Extra to the basic package:
- Helicopter flights Maidadyr - Base Camp - Maidadyr
- Land transfers from Almaty or Bishkek to Karakol and back
- All personal equipment (sleeping bag, sleeping pad , gas cylinders and gas-stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
- Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier
- Helicopter transfer to the beginning of route and to the lower camps for rest
- Service of Guides, porters
- Kyrgyz visa support
- Registration in OVIR

Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
3) ITMC provides with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
4) Usually airline company that provides helicopters for work in area of South Inylchek Glacier confirms actual price for helicopter service just before the season (May).
5) Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person).
6) Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek Glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31 and sometimes till Sep 10.
7) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.