Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan.

There is variety of mountaineering activities in Kyrgyzstan. Over 95% of the country is above 1000m and 40% of the territory is above 3000m. This relief was formed by two mountain systems - Tien-Shan and Pamir. Average altitude of Kyrgyzstan is 2500m. Three summits of the coutntry are higher than 7000m. They are Pobeda Peak (7439m) and Khan-Tengri Peak (7010m) in Tien-Shan mountains and Lenin Peak (7134m) in the Pamirs.

ITMC Tien-Shan is a leading company in Kyrgyzstan which organizes all kinds of mountaineering expeditions. The company possesses all necessary infrastructire and has long-term experience in this field. From 1989 to 2007 it had been conducted 98 expeditions.

Logistics of mountaineering expeditions.

1. Description of climbing areas (ascent routes, approaches, maps, weather)

2. Formalities: visa support, Kyrgyz visa (including group Kyrgyz visa on paper), registration in OVIR (passport department), border permits, travel through enclaves.

3. Transportation: Buses (up to 48 seats) and Minibuses (10-17 seats).
Off-road vehicles: URAL (16 seats, 6WD), KAMAZ (22 seats, 6WD), GAS-66 (12 seats, 4 WD), UAZ-452 (7 seats, 4WD). Click to look at photo.

4. Support with freight delivery and customs clearance as well as storage of mountaineering gear/outfit.

5. Food supply - including small gas canisters (Coleman screw type - 250gr, 430gr), large gas cylinders (20kg, 40kg), stoves, burners, dining sets and kitchen utensils. Click on item to look at photo.

6. Accommodation of all categories: from home stay lodging in mountain huts and yurts to hotels and resorts.

7. Gear and Camping outfit:
Rope (dynamic, static), ice axe, avalanche transceivers.
Camping furniute: folding tables, chairs, awning.
Electric generator, flashlight, battery or gas supply light.
Transporting boxes, barrels, canisters - for food, water, gas, petrol etc.
Tents of various kinds: high altitude tent, Base Camp tent, Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent.
Communication means: Satellite phones (Thuraya), cell phones (GSM), transport radio stations.
Search and Rescue equipment: avalanche probes, avalanche shovels, stretchers, hoist etc.
Click on item to look at photo.

Rescue Service.
ITMC works in close cooperation with Rescue Service in Kyrgyzstan. Search and Rescue work (including medical evacuation by helicopter or plane) for climbers and tourists in the mountains can be provided within 2-4 hours.

Programmes, service:

TIEN-SHAN:
TSA-1 Khan-Tengri, 7010m
TSA-2 Pobeda Peak, 7439m
TSA-3 Ala-Archa
TSA-5 First ascents

PAMIR:
TSA-6 Lenin Peak, 7134m
TSA-7 Communism Peak, 7495m
TSA-8 Rock Walss of Karavshin

CHINA:
TSA-9 Ski Ascent on Mustag-Ata
TSA-10 Mustag-Ata Peak, 7546m

Mountaineering possibilities of Kyrgyzstan

Reports on expeditions in Kyrgyzstan.

Request up-dated information from ITMC office.

Our programmes can be changed and individualised according to your interests. Please feel free to suggest any changes and variations that are of interest to you. Thank you.

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Mountaineering possibilities of Kyrgyzstan

Tien-Shan Mountains
Tien-Shan is one of the largest mountain systems over Asia. It extends about 2000 km in the latitudinal direction and is 400 km in width. About 2/3 mountains of the Tien-Shan is located in Kyrgyzstan. The ranges of Tien-Shan are made of sedimentary, metamorphic, and igneous rocks. The Tien-Shan consists of Northern, Western, Central, Inner, and Eastern Tien-Shan according to its orographic structure. The most of the ranges have typical mountain-glacier "alpine" relief. The ancient highly elevated flat surfaces like those in the Tibet, are for example on the southern slope of the Terskey Ala-Too or in the Inner Tien-Shan, where they are on the altitude of 4-5 thousand meters.

The climate of Tien-Shan is sharply continental, i.e. hot summer on foothills and in valleys and cold in the Alpine zone. Severe for these latitude winter, rather strong temperature fluctuations within a day and a year, cloudless and considerable dryness are characteristic features of this area. Plenty of solar light. Average annual duration of solar radiance amounts to from 2500 to 2700 hours. The highest possible cloudiness is in March and April while the least one is in August and September. The altitude temperature gradient, i.e. the temperature fall in each 100 m of elevation, makes up 0.7° C in summer and 0.6° C in autumn and spring, and 0.5° C in winter. Rainfall varies greatly from 200-300 mm to 1600 mm per year. Maximum rainfall is during the first part of summer. Peculiar microclimate of the Tien-Shan is formed on the ridges which surround Issyk-Kul Lake. Total area of glaciers in Tien-Shan makes up 7300 sq km.

The relief, climatic peculiarities, snow lines, flora and fauna of the individual regions in Kyrgyzstan vary greatly.

Pamir Mountains
Kyrgyz Republic covers only the most northern part of Pamir - the northern slopes of the Zaalaiskiy Ridge and northern part of Pamir-Alai. This are the mountains which separate Tien-Shan and Pamir, and which include Turkestan and Alai Range. The climate of Pamir is sharply continental, which is like in Tien-Shan but differs from the latter by a comparatively stable weather, less humidity and larger quantity of solar days. The densest cloudiness is in March and April like in Tien-Shan, and less cloudy sky is in August and September.

The peculiarities of the climate will be given in more detail in describing the individual areas.

There are 8 areas that are of great interest for alpinists. Five of them are in Tien-Shan and the rest three ones are in Pamirs.

Descriptions of mountaineering regions in brief.

Tien-Shan:
1. Central Tien-Shan
2. Terskey Ala-Too Range
3. Kyrgyz Range
4. Western Kokshaal-Too Range
5. Akshiirak and Kuiluu Ranges
6. Perspective areas in Tien-Shan

Pamir:
7. Zaalaiskiy Range
8. Turkestanskiy Range
9. Alaiskiy Range

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1. Central Tien-Shan
Central Tien-Shan includes two areas: Northern and Southern Inylchek Glaciers and Kaindy Glacier.

Area of Northern and Southern Inylchek Glaciers. This area is located in the most remote eastern part of Kyrgyzstan, at the borders of China and Kazakhstan including the eastern parts of such ranges as Kokshaal-Too, Inylchek-Too, Sarydjaz as well as Tengri-Tag and Meridionalniy Ranges. In this area there is one of the largest glaciers in the world - Southern Inylchek Glacier, its length stretches for 62 km, width is 3.5 km, and the depth of ice reaches 200 m. There are two summits higher than 7000 m - peaks of Pobeda and Khan-Tengri. These summits are the most popular among alpinists. Since the first ascents alpinists made ascents along 21 different ascent routes to Khan-Tengri and 8 ascent routes to Pobeda Peak. In this region 23 summits are higher than 6000 m and about 80 summits of 5000-6000 m in height. Among them 3 summits higher than 6000 m and 14 summits 5000-6000 m in height are virgin mounts. About 70 routes there have been explored.

Northern Inylchek Glacier is located in Kazakhstan. Therefore we describe in more details the Southern Inylchek Glacier that is the most severe one in Tien-Shan. It is usual thing in summer when the sun shines in the morning and hides to the noon when the sky starts to cover with clouds, and it is snowing in the afternoon. Sometimes the weather worsens for several days and it is snowing for two or three days ceaseless. The most stable weather begins usually after August 5 and lasts till the middle of September, but in September it becomes much colder than in August. Average temperature is 5° C in July, 7° C in August and 3° C in September. Routes there are combined, snow, and snow-ice. The slopes and summits of the mountains are usually covered with snow and ice. In addition to the technical difficulties which are available on routes, alpinists might be caught by such danger as weather, which can worsen unexpectedly and last several days. This creates extra danger of avalanche. Also alpinists have to be careful of cracks in the glaciers that are very insidious in this region. Usually one or two days are needed to have the snow be consolidated.

ITMC has stationary base camp on the lateral moraine of Southern Inylchek Glacier. There are five wooden huts to handle up to 42 persons, with a tent camp next door, a helicopter landing place, a blockhouse sauna, a kitchen and dining rooms, and 220 voltage power station. The camp is situated under the slopes of peak Gorky, on the altitude of 3995 m. During July and August the permanent radio communication is available in these camps with intermediary Maidadyr base camp and Bishkek and Karakol cities. This area can be reached only by helicopter that flies from Maidadyr landing ground which is located in the eastern direction along Inylchek valley and close to a frontier-post. It takes 30 minutes by helicopter and 4-5 days going on foot to get to the Base Camp from Maidadyr. Horses failed to pass to the base camp. Porters can be hired from travel company, but you can order luggage delivery by helicopter which would be more convenient and often cheaper. The helicopter usually operates in this area from mid July to early September. Maidadyr camp may be reached by car or cross country vehicle along the 180 km mountain road through Chon-Ashu pass (3822m) from Karakol town.

Area of Kaindy Glacier. The area of Kaindy Glacier is situated in the vicinity of Southern Inylchek Glacier south-west from the latter. It includes the glaciers of Kaindy and Terekty. Weather conditions are similar to those of Southern Inylchek Glacier. This area is explored by alpinists not as frequently as the latter, and is characterized by summits up to 6073 m highest. There are plenty of virgin summits. Routes are combined, ice-snow and snow; rainfall is 1000-1500m. The first mountaineering expedition in this region was conducted in 1995. Members of the expedition made their first ascents to seven summits of the area. Kaindy Glacier can be reached by helicopter and by cross country vehicle and with the help of porters. You can reach Inylchek village by car along 150 km asphalted road from Karakol, then about 30 km along a bad mountain road that may be passed over only by a high-cross-country-capability vehicle. It takes two days of going on foot up to the upper reaches of Inylchek Glacier starting from the terminal of the road.

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2. Terskey Ala-Too Range

Terskey Ala-Too is a range which stretches 300 km in the latitudinal direction along the southern side of Issyk-Kul lake starting from its western extremity as far as the borders with China. Its northern slopes of central parts including such gorges as Dzhuuku, Kichi-Kyzylsuu, Chon-Kyzylsuu, Dzhety-Oguz, Karakol, and Ak-Suu are of interest for mountaineers. Among them the most popular are Dzhety-Oguz and Karakol in which the highest summits of Terskey Ala-Too - Dzhigit Peak (5170 m), Karakolskiy Peak (5281 m), and Oguz-Bashi Peak (5158 m) and the highest walls are located. About 200 routes have been explored there, from very simple to very difficult ones. The routes are rather rock or combined than ice and snow or snow. The difference of altitude are up to 1500 m. The climate is considerably milder here than that in Central Tien-Shan due to the lower absolute altitudes and the neighbourhood of Lake Issyk-Kul. Plenty of precipitation, it amounts to 1600 mm a year. The largest portion of precipitation falls to the beginning of summer. July and August are characterized by frequent snowfalls and thunderstorms. The most stable weather is in September, but in mountains it becomes much colder than it is in valley. One can reach this area by car from Karakol. The road extends 80 km through Dhzety-Oguz Gorge from Karakol, further one-day going on foot as far as the regions for ascents. Horses and porters are available. Horses may be found on place whereas porters should be taken from Karakol. The distance between Karakol town and the end of the road in Karakol Gorge is 12 km. The subsequent road is washed away and going on foot is the only way of moving. Horses and porters are available. It takes about one or two days of going on foot from the terminal of road and the regions for ascents. Other gorges of Terskey Ala-Too are visited more rarely than Karakol and Dzhety-Oguz, they provide mountaineers with ample opportunities for making first ascents.

3. Kyrgyz Range (of Ala-Archa and Alamedin Gorges).

This area is situated in 40 km distance southwards from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Summits lift up to the altitude of 4895 m (the highest point of the range is Semenov-Tien-Shanskiy Peak). Routes are rock, combined, seldom ice and snow-ice. The rocks consist of tough granite and granodiorite The difference of altitude is till 1100 m. The amount of precipitation attains 690 mm a year. The least amount of precipitation falls in August and September while the largest one in May and June. Average temperature is -12° C in winter, -7° C in autumn, and +3° C spring.

In Kyrgyz Range the most popular area is Ak-Sai Glacier which is situated in Ala-Archa National Nature Park. About 150 routes from the simplest to the most complicated walls lifting up to 1100 m have been explored there. There are four mountain huts, three of which are small (roughly 4X4 m) and one stone made hut is more comfortable and can accommodate up to 20 persons at a time. It takes about three hours by foot from the terminal of road in Ala-Archa Park to, so called, Ak-Sai stop. It takes 45 minutes of riding by car from Bishkek to Ala-Arch Nature Park (terminal of road).

Other gorges of Ala-Archa - Adygene, Topkaragai, Tuyuk, and Golubina - are visited much seldom and have no such unique opportunities for ascents. The difference of altitude attains 600 m and most of the routes are simple and of average class of difficulty, but give much more opportunities for passing new routes.

Alamedin. Area of Salyk Glacier is one of the most popular. Similar to Ala-Archa Alamedin offer perfect opportunities for ascents and has walls lifting 1000 m. About 30 routes including the simplest and most difficult ones have been passed here. In addition, there are opportunities for making new routes there. The other glaciers of Alamedin such as Altyn-Tor and Tuyuk-Tor are less popular. The difference of altitude attains 500 m, the routes are easy or of average class of difficulty, there are excellent opportunities for passing new routes. The approaches to the place of ascent from the terminal of road in Alamedin are more distant than that of in Ala-Archa. The way to Salyk takes 5 hours whereas to Altyn-Tor and Tuyuk-Tor 6 hours.

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4. Western Kokshaal-Too Range

Western Kokshaal-Too Range is located in the south from Lake Issyk-Kul, on the border with China. There are summits of up to 5982 m (Dankov Peak), 17 summits rises above 5000 m and about 60 summits are of 4000 - 5000 m high. The most of them, including 11 which are higher than 5000 m, are virgin summits. The difference between the foothills and the highest points reaches 1800 m and the walls are as high as 1200 m. The routes are rock, combined or snow-ice. The rocks are composed with red or grey granite and offers the perfect opportunities for climbing. The climate is very severe, and even in summer the temperature rises above zero very rare The most stable weather is in July and September. The average temperature is +4° C in July, +6° C in August, and +2° C in September. The annual amount of precipitation is 420 mm a year. The area is rather distant and rarely visited. The approaches are short, 1-3 hour way on foot from car road to the routes. It is possible to reach east part of this place by a high-cross-road capability car along the 180-km road going from the southern cost of Lake Issyk-Kul over Barskoon and West part of the area by some mountain road, along 180 km road, going from Naryn town through Akmuz village.

5. Akshiirak and Kuilyu Ranges

Akshiirak and Kuilu Ranges are located southwards from the eastern extremity of Lake Issyk-Kul, half way from the lakeside to the Kyrgyz-Chinese border. Two rather independent areas in the vicinity to each other can be marked out. They are Akshiirak Range and Kuilu Range (to the east of Akshiirak). The climate is similar to that of Central Tien-Shan but a bit milder. Annual rainfall is 694 mm, the largest part of it falls in summer and the least one in winter. Annual temperature is -16° C in winter, -7° C in spring and autumn, +2° C in June, +4° C in July and August, and +1° C in September.

Akshiirak Range. The summits reaches 5126 m. There are abundance of ice patches and the glacier flows frequently from the passes and summits. The difference of altitude is up to 700 m and in its eastern part in the vicinity of the 5126-m Peak it lifts up to 1000 m. Plenty of ice patches and excellent conditions are for ski mountaineering the year round. Only in the second part of August and September the glaciers become free from snow. The routes are combined with large ice-snow sections and ice-snow or snow patches. There are no high vertical walls there. Various options of routes: simple, mean and, only in the northern and southern slopes of 5126-m Peak, complicated. There have been no alpinist expeditions here yet, the perfect chance for mountaineers to pioneer and explore new routes. It is possible to reach this place by a high-cross-road-capability car starting from the southern cost of the Issyk-Kul over Barskoon along 100-150-km mountain road. The approaches to the place of climbing takes 1-2 days.

Kuilu Range. The ridge is situated to East from Akshiirak Ridge. Altitudes are here till 5281 m. Relief is more high them in Akshiirak Ridge. Routes here are combined or rocks. Only a few expedition have been here. It was climbed highest peak – Constitution Peak and some peaks around. Plenty peaks till 5200 m from very simple routes to very difficult are virgin. Access in this area possible by car from East along Kuilu Gorge, along Uchkul Gorge or along Taldysuu River and from West through Sarychat Valley. For this area don’t need special permits.

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6. Perspective areas in Tien-Shan
For those who are interested in expeditions to virgin mountains the following areas would be most appropriate: Borkoldoi Range, Atbashinskiy Range, Djetymtoo Range and Djangart area of central part of Kokshaal-Too Range.

7. Zaalaiskiy Range

The most popular place here is Achik-Tash gorge. It is one of the most famous alpinist regions all over the world. The easiest summit higher than 7000 m - Lenin Peak (7134 m) is located here. The area is located on the northern slopes of the Zaalaiskiy Range on the Kyrgyz-Tadjik border. Plenty of ice patches, slopes and summits are covered with ice and snow. The difference of altitude is up to 3000 m. Routes are not difficult technically, it is mainly snow and snow-ice. This region offers the magnificent opportunities to climb up such altitude even with basic technical training. The climate is much milder than that in the Tien-Shan. Average temperature is 10° C in July-August. The largest portion of precipitation falls in the period from April till the beginning of June and the smallest in August and September. You can reach the base camp by car along the 220-km mountain road over the 3165-m Taldyk Pass starting from Osh town. In addition to Achik-Tash mountaineers can climb Lenin Peak starting from the neighbouring Kamansu gorge over the Razdelnaya Summit. Whereas in summer Achik-Tash teems with expeditions from all over the world, the latter route is rarely explored though the ascent time is the same, the way is less dangerous, and it is possible to arrive to the base camp by car.

8. Turkestanskiy Range

The Turkestanskiy Range is located in South West of Kyrgyzstan, and sets off the Fergana Valley from the South-West. It faces Kyrgyzstan with its northern slopes. All of the northern slopes of the central and eastern parts of the range stretching 80 km are of great interest for mountaineers. As a whole it is a region little explored by alpinists excluding the world-known Liailiak and Karavshin Gorges. The climate is much milder than that in the Tien-Shan. The annual amount of precipitation ranges from 250 to 400 mm increasing from East to West. The driest months are August and September. The average temperature of January is -5° C and that of August +14° C. The summits rises as high as 5621 m; Skalistiy Peak is the highest point of the Range.

Liailiak and Karavshin Gorges are the paradise for mountaineers. The rocks resemble by their structure Patagonia but differ from the latter by their more extension and warmer climate. The walls are of 2000 m high, e.g., the northern wall of Ak-Suu Peak. The rocks are firm and massive granites, limestone and sandstone. The reserve for technical ascents along already passed routes, as well as the opportunities for the first ascents and new ways to the conquered summits. It is possible to arrive this region by helicopter directly from Tashkent City. The ride by car from Tashkent as far as Karavshin settlement, proceeding on foot or on horses within 1 day is also possible.

Less-known Uryam, Sabakh, and Kyrk-Bulak Canyons stretches westwards of Liailiak Gorge. The rocks in these canyons are similar to those in Ak-Suu and Karavshin in addition there are plenty of unclimbed summits and resources for making new ways. Eastwards farther from these gorges, in the upper reaches of the Karasang River on its southern board stretches 10 km and the walls as high as 1000 m in height composed of lame- or sandstones. Only unclimbed summits.

A number of sub parallel canyons such as Dzhupai, Tamyngen, Min-Teke, Djiptic, and Kshemysh are extended eastwards from the Karavshin Gorge in the meridional direction. The alpinists visit this region very rarely and there is a vast potentiality for first climbing and first passing. Ride from the Fergana Valley is possible to all of these gorges. The approaches take 1-2 days on horses that can be hired on place.

9. Alaiskiy Range

The Alaiskiy Range is located in the South of Kyrgyzstan, separates the Fergana Valley from Alaiskiy Valley. On West the range joins the Turkestanskiy Range and is as if its extension to the East for 400 km to the Chinese border. The climate is similar to that of in the region of Turkestanskiy Range. The western and central parts solely are of interest for mountaineers. These parts of the range are several meters higher than its eastern part. Its highest point Gandykul Peak of 5444 m. Three regions solely are explored by alpinists on the whole length of the Alaiskiy Range. It is the area of the Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koksu, and Archakanysh Gorges on the northern slopes of the eastern part of the Range southwards from Fergana Town, which is located on the southern slopes of the eastern part of the Range; and, the region of Kichik ranging from the simplest to super complicated have been used here. The abundance of rock walls are rising as high as 1500 m. The rocks are composed of solid limestone, sandstone and granite. In the region of Kichik-Alai about 80 routes of simple and mean class of difficulty have been explored. The region is popular with mountaineers from Osh Town thanks to the simplicity of approaches. The region of the Guamysh Gorge is explored insignificantly in the eastern part of the gorge where about 40 routs have been used including 10 ones of super difficulty. A vast reserves for first ascents and new routes except the above-mentioned regions of the Alaiskiy Range, which makes up its smaller area. Arrival along motor roads is possible from the Fergana and Alai Valleys to all the regions of the gorge. Way to the routes takes 1-2 days. Horses that can be rented on place can carry the luggage.

• Ascent to one of the splendid mountains in the world - the "Lord of Spirits"
• Dramatic views of a huge, snow-white pyramid
• Possibility to combine ascent to Pobeda Peak (7439m)
• Accommodation in mountain huts or Base Camp tents on South Inylchek Glacier

Best season: July - August

Khan-Tengri (7010 m) was first climbed by Ukrainian alpinist M. Pogrebetskiy in 1931, from the south side which is now known as Classic Route. Since then 21 routes on four aspects of the mountain have been explored, but possibilities for new routes has not yet been exhausted. Khan-Tengri Mt can be climbed from either South or North Inylchek Glaciers, on which separate base camps are located. ITMC owns one of the main base camps on South Inylchek Glacier at its junction with the Zviozdochka Glacier, below Gorky Peak (6050 m). The altitude of this base camp is 3995m.

Our standard programme is for ascent on Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier. Following some initial acclimatisation, usual tactics for ascent along this route is as follows:

• Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4300m). This takes 2-4 hours. It is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day.
• Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for this next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovski Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5900m. There is usually a snow cave at this point, that may be used (on a "first come, first served" basis).
• During period of acclimatisation two nights should be spent at Camp 2 and climbers should ascend to 6200m - 6500m before descending to base camp for rest.
• From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.
• Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds.
• From Camp 3 route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes.
• Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day.

Scheme of programme:

Service in basic package:
- Return land transfers by off-road vehicle (4-6 WD) from Karakol to Maydadyr
- Full board during 10 days in Base Camp
- Border permit
- Consultations of experienced Guides
- Accommodation:
- - in Hotel** or Guest House in Karakol (2 nights) including breakfast
- - in huts or tents in the Base Camp (10 nights)

Extra to the basic package:
- Helicopter flights Maidadyr - Base Camp - Maidadyr
- Land transfers from Almaty or Bishkek to Karakol and back
- All personal equipment (sleeping bag, carry mat, gas cylinders and gas-stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
- Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier
- Helicopter transfer to the beginning of route and to the lower camps for rest
- Service of Guides, porters
- Kyrgyz visa support
- Registration in OVIR

Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
3) ITMC provides with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
4) Usually airline company that provides helicopters for work in area of South Inylchek Glacier, confirms actual price for helicopter service just before the season (May).
5) Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person).
6) Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek Glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31 and sometimes till Sep 10.
7) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.

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TSA-2 Pobeda Peak 7439 m, 26 days

• Ascent to the highest point of Tien-Shan Mountains
• Possibility to combine ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (7010m)
• Accommodation in mountain huts or Base Camp tents on South Inylchek Glacier

Best season: July - August

Pobeda Peak (7439 m) was geographically discovered in 1943, but not successfully climbed until 1956, following tragic ends to many of previous attempts. Following V. Abalakov's initial ascent, an expedition led by I.Erokhin in 1956 was the first to climb it via the Chon-Teren Glacier and in 1970 A.Ryabukhin's expedition achieved the first complete traverse of the massif from east to west. Pobeda can be a savage mountain. Generally obscured by thick cloud even during periods of relatively good weather, it is subject to unpredictable and violent snowstorms and extreme winds that blow from the Takla Makan desert. There are 8 established routes on Pobeda Peak, the most difficult being on its northern slopes.

The most frequently climbed route (established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is to West Pobeda Peak (6918m) via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). ITMS offers this route although ascent tactics varies according to the level of experience of expedition members and conditions prevailing on the mountain. Any aspect of the programme may be adjusted to suit clients preferences.

• From South Inylchek Base Camp (3995 m) it is 15 km approach along the Zviozdochka Glacier to reach the northern wall of Pobeda Peak.
• Ascend along the icefall to the Dikiy Pass (5200 m) where Camp 1 can be established. Fixed ropes can be used for protection when crossing difficult sections.
• Continue ascent along the ridge. Camp 2 should be set up at the altitude of about 5800 m, just before the rocky section. A snow cave is often established here, affording protection from cold winds that blow from the west.
• From Camp 2 (5800 m) ascend along the snow, ice and rock ridge to the summit of West Pobeda Peak (6918m). Camp 3 can be established on the Chinese side, which is more protected from the wind. It is recommendable to use a snow cave.
• From Camp 3 (6900 m) it is a 4 km traverse of the west ridge to the summit.
• Descent follows the same route and takes two days.

Scheme of programme:

Days	Itinerary:
1	Arrival in Karakol.	Hotel or Guest House
2	Transfer Karakol - Maidadyr (170 km, ca. 4 hours), helicopter flight Maidadyr - Base Camp (ca. 30-35 minutes).	Base Camp tents or Mountain hut
3-24	Acclimatization, climbing (trekking).	Base Camp tents or Mountain hut
25	Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Maidadyr. Transfer to Karakol.	Hotel or Guest House
26	Departure.

Service in basic package:
- Return land transfers by cross country vehicle (4-6 WD) from Karakol to Maidadyr
- Full board during 10 days in the Base Camp
- Border permit
- Consultations of experienced Guides
- Accommodation:
- - in Hotel** or guest house in Karakol (2 nights) including breakfast
- - in huts or tents in the Base Camp (10 nights)

Extra to the basic package:
- Helicopter flights Maidadyr - Base Camp - Maidadyr
- Return land transfers from Almaty or Bishkek to Karakol
- All personal equipment (sleeping bag, carry mat, gas cylinders and gas-stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
- Helicopter show-flight over the peaks
- Helicopter transfer to the beginning of a route and to the lower camp for rest
- Service of Guides, porters
- Kyrgyz visa support
- Registration in OVIR

Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
3) ITMC provides with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
4) Usually airline company that provides helicopters for work in area of South Inylchek Glacier, confirms actual price for helicopter service just before the season (May).
5) Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person).
6) Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek Glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31 and sometimes till September 10.
7) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12000 .

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TSA-3 Ala-Archa

• A lot of mountaineering possibilities of various difficulty levels
• Summits under 4875m, and wide choice of rock, ice and combined routes
• Programmes from 2-3 days duration
• Scenic Alpine views
• Easy approach, 30-40 minutes driving from Bishkek
• Low price (because of short approach road)
• Accommodation in Mountain Lodge and in tents

Best season: May - September

Ala-Archa National Nature Park is a grand and rugged which is located in the central part of Kyrgyz Ala-Too, 42 km far from Bishkek. There are many possibilities for people of various levels of qualifications and experience in mountaineering, including hikes to Glaciers and treks to the region's highest peaks. Motor road leads to Ala-Archa from Bishkek, and at 2100 m altitude you can reach Ak-Sai Glacier and pass the forest and alpine meadows zone. On the lateral moraine at the altitude of 3100 m, comfortable sites for tents are located. This place is called "Ratzek stop", and it is usually used for pitching a base camp from which short approaches lead to the main routes. The Glacier is surrounded by ranges, there are well known summits and more than 100 routes of different technical level.

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TSA-5 First Ascents in Tien-Shan

• Virgin summits and routes in remote places of Kyrgyzstan
• Mounts of 4000-6200m with snow and combined routes
• Qualified local support for expedition - maps, routes' descriptions, previous attempts info, experienced camp managers, drivers, cooks and other personnel etc

Best season: July - September

The Tien-Shan (Celestial) Mountains take up most of our small republic. The upper reaches of these magnificent mountains themselves are swathed in snow and ice. Lower down glaciers abound. The mountains of Tien-Shan are almost as high as the Pamir, but the less rugged valleys make it a much greener and richer region agriculturally. They are considered to be some of the most beautiful places in Central Asia.

In Tien-Shan there are hundreds unclimbed summits of altitude between 4000 m and 6200 m, and nobody has been there. One of the most perspective areas for the first ascent to virgin peaks are Central Tien-Shan, Akshiirak Range, and Western Kokshaal-Too Range. We are ready to give necessary information for those who wish to attempt an unexplored ascents in Tien-Shan mountains and provide any services for expedition (visa, permits of all kinds, transportation, mountaineering gear, food, guides, interpreters, porters, camp personnel, radio connection etc.).

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TSA-6 Lenin Peak 7134 m, 21 days

• Ascent to one of the most technically easy seven-thousanders in the world
• Scenic views of Pamir, the Roof of World
• Accommodation in Guest House, Classic Base Camp tents

Best season: July - August

Lenin Peak is situated in the northern part of Pamir in Zaalaiskiy range and it is considered to be one of the most easy climbed seven-thousanders, which you can ascend without special training or high-altitude climbing experience. ITMC leads ascent to Lenin peak from the North side. The ascent is in expedition style.

Route description for the Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash base camp (3700 m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that climbs up towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100 m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins (about 5km from base camp). Walk along the Glacier for a further 5km to an altitude of about 4200m where Advanced Base Camp sites are located on the moraine near the head of the Glacier (approximate average time from base camp to ABC is 6-8 hours).

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp)(4200m), cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (frying pan!). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly advisable for people to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 people. Fixed ropes are sometimes in place over across difficult or dangerous crevassed sections, but the safety of these can not always be depended on (especially as ice screws are prone t o melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins a traverse to Camp 2 which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300 m (approximate average time from ABC to Camp 2 is 6-8 hours). This section can be exhausting in good weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 (5300m) ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where Camp 3 can be established in the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m (approximate average time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours). This part of the ascent is a snow slog, with few crevasses and rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in the event of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 (6100 m) ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400m (where it is possible to establish a Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate average return time from Camp 3 to summit is 10-15 hours. The whole of the route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

Scheme of programme:

Days	Itinerary:
1	Arrival in Osh.	Guest House
2	Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash, Base Camp.	Base Camp tents
3-19	Acclimatisation, climbing.	Base Camp tents
20	Transfer Achik-Tash Base Camp - Osh.	Guest House
21	Departure.	-

Service in basic package:
- Transfers by cross country vehicle (6 WD) Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
- Border permit
- Air ticket Bishkek - Osh - Bishkek
- Delivery of air fares to airport
- Accommodation:
- - in Guest House in Osh (2 nights) including breakfast and diner
- - in tents at the Base Camp (7 nights)
- Full board during 7 days in the Base Camp

Extra to the Basic package:
- Visa support
- Registration in OVIR
- Accommodation in Bishkek
- Transfers Airport - Bishkek and Bishkek - airport
- Meals in Osh (except meals in Guest House mentioned above)
- All personal mountaineering gear (gas cylinders and stoves, kerosene stoves, petrol for climbing etc)
- Airport transfers
- Accommodation in Tashkent, Almaty and Bishkek
- Mountain Guides (working out the route, pitching intermediate camps etc)
- Porters
- Advanced Base Camp service

Conditions an notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for the ascent by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear which is necessary for ascent.
3) This basic itinerary takes about 17 days and further 3 days are factored in to allow for some flexibility in case of bad weather. Return transfer to Osh is usually made on day 20 of the programme and transfer from Osh to the city of departure on day 21.
4) Air fare Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek must be reconfirmed in May. Baggage limit for flight Bishkek-Osh is 15 kg.
5) It is possible to rent some equipment (ice axe, ropes, carbines, crampons, carry mats, sleeping bags) from ITMC.
6) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.

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TSA-7 Communism Peak / Somoni Peak 7495m, 28 days

• 28 days programme from Dushanbe to Dushanbe (Tadjikistan)
• Spectacular views of Pamir Mountains
• Possibility to combine 2 ascents to seventhousanders - Communism Peak and Korzhenevskoi Peak (7105m)
• Accommodation in Hotel in Dushanbe and Classic Base Camp tents on Moskvina Glade

Best season: late July - August

Please check with ITMC schedule of helicopter flights.

Variant 1. Approach via Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Variant 2. Approach via Osh, Kyrgyzstan

 Service in basic package:
- Tadjik visa support
- Permit for ascent, border permit and police registration
- Land transportation mentioned in the programme
- Helicopter return flight to the Base Camp
- Accommodation in Hotel** or Guest Houses (including breakfast)
- Service in Base Camp:
- - full board
- - accommodation in tents on double sharing basis
- - use of toilets, shower, dining tent, storage room
- - consultations of experienced guides

Extra to the basic package:
- Tadjik and Kyrgyz visa fees
- Service of guide and porters on ascent
- Rent of equipment for ascent (gas cylinders, gas-stove burner etc)
- Kyrgyz visa support

Conditions and notes:
1) If you arrive directly to Bishkek, you may either stay for a night there and next day depart to Osh, or at the same day depart there.
2) The fastest (1 hour flight) and cheapest way to reach Osh is by air (ca. EURO 45 per one way ticket - subject to confirmation in May). Land transportation takes about 2 days (710 km). There are no direct regular flights to Osh from Europe.
3) Dates of helicopter flights are fixed only for days of good weather conditions.
4) Every passenger is allowed to take 30 kg free of charge onboard, and overweight is subject to charge.
5) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
6) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
7) We provide with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
8) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.

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TSA-8 Rock walls of Karavshin, 24 days

• Explore Central Asian Patagonia
• Rock walls of 60-90 degrees steepness and of up to 2 km high
• Spectacular views of southern Kyrgyzstan

Best season: June - September

This programme is for alpinists who are specialised on rock climbing. Summits in upper reaches of the Lialiak and Karavshin rivers on the Southern Kyrgyzstan territory look like the mountains in South Patagonia but they are higher and have rock walls of 2 km. Mountains in the basin of Lialiak River are more interesting for ascents: Ak-Suu 5355m, Blok 5229 m, Iskander 5120 m. The highest point in this region is Piramidalniy Peak - 5509 m which is located in the basin of Karavshin river, in 30 km to the east. Near you can see mountains with rock walls. Those are the Asan-Usen and Russia peaks. Short approaches (about 5 km) from the base camps lead to walls. Steepness is of 60-90 degrees.

Scheme of programme:

Service in basic package:
- Land transportation
- Horses, depending on the size of group (every horse carries 50-60 kg of the luggage)
- Accommodation as mentioned in the programme
- Base camp equipment
- Food (full board)
- Camp personnel (camp manager-guard-cook)
- Long distance radio connection

Extra to the basic package:
- Helicopter flight from Tashkent / Bishkek to Vorukh or Katran
- Excursion in Tashkent / Bishkek, Osh, Samarkand and Bukhara
- Mountain Guide and porters

Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
3) It is possible to rent some mountaineering gear (ice axe, ropes, carbines, crampons, carry mats, sleeping bags) from ITMC.
4) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.

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TSA-9 Ski Ascent on Mustag-Ata 7546m, 25 days

• High altitude trekking and skiing in one tour
• Explore beautiful mountain places of two countries - Kyrgyzstan and China
• Mix of natural beauty, active rest and original culture
• Experienced Guide-instructors
• Accommodation in Hotels, Yurt Inns, and classic tented Base Camp

Best season: June - September

Mustag-Ata is a summit of 7546 m located in the Kun Lun range on the China territory not far from Kashgar. The summit has gentle slopes of 25-30 degrees steepness. It offers good possibilities to ascend to the summit on skies.

Scheme of programme:

Days	Itinerary:
1	Arrival in Bishkek. Sightseeing.	Hotel
2	Transfer to Bolshaya Ala-Archa Glacier (42 km from Bishkek).	Tent Camp
3-4	Acclimatisation in skies. Ascent to the summits and passes of up to 4800 m.	Tent Camp
5	Return to Bishkek.	Hotel
6	Transfer to Naryn (350 km).	Yurt Inn or Guest House
7	Transfer to Torugart, Kyrgyz-Chinese border post (200 km). Meet with Chinese Agency representative. Transfer further to Kashgar (150 km).	Hotel
8-9	Transfer Kashgar - Mustag-Ata Base Camp.	Tent Camp
10-20	Acclimatization. High altitude trekking on Mustag-Ata. Skiing.	Tent Camp
21	Return to Kashgar. City tour.	Hotel
22	Transfer Kashgar - Torugart - Naryn.	Yurt Inn or Guest House
23	Transfer to Issyk-Kul. Rest by the lake.	Hotel
24	Transfer Issyk-Kul Lake - Bishkek.	Hotel
25	Departure.	-

Service in basic package:
- Land transportation
- Accommodation as mentioned in the programme
- Full Board during approach way in Kyrgyzstan and China, and 10 days in the Base Camp on Mustag-Ata
- Kitchenware, dinning (mess) tent for the Base Camp
- Base Camp equipment: tables, stools, stoves, etc
- English speaking Guide (not for ascent) and other attendant personnel
- Formalities: Chinese visa support, permissions

Extra to the basic service:
- Chinese visa fee
- Guide for the ascent
- Porters

Conditions and notes:
1) Tourists do ascent and choose tactics for it by themselves.
2) Every tourist has to have own ski gear and sleeping bag.
3) Days of border crossing must be on business week days. Kyrgyz-Chinese border post on Torugart is closed on weekends as well as on Kyrgyz and Chinese holidays.
4) It is hard to find porters in Xinjiang, China, who are qualified enough and who have high altitude experience. If you need assistance of porters, you can hire them in Bishkek.
5) We provide with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
6) All tourists must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 12 000.

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TSA-10 Mustag-Ata Peak 7546 m, 26 days

• Expedition to one of the most fascinating places for mountaineering
• Easy approach through Kyrgyzstan
• Highly qualified personnel who have a huge experience of work in this region
• Sunrise and sunset approach camel treks
• Accommodation in nice Hotels, Yurt Inns, and classic tented Base Camp

Best season: June - September

Lying at E75°1'' and 38°5', Mt Mustag-Ata of 7546 meters above sea level is ranked the third among the highest peaks in the East Pamir, standing on the common boundary of Akto county and Tashkulgan in Xinjiang, Northwest in China. Four major ridges - the South ridge, the West ridge, the Northwest ridge and the Northeast ridge rest on this peak, perfectly round top of which are wrapped in snow all the year round while more than ten glaciers are set in the canyon of it. Looking just like a gray-haired old man, it is consequently called by the local residents "Father of Ice Mountains". The west slope being gentle, north and east slopes are on the contrary dangerously precipitous.

The Golden Eye Route description.
A new route named Golden Eye, is the third route on Mustag-Ata, south route, Base Camp is located by Qiaodumark Glacier.

From the Base Camp climb gully to a notch in the ridge. Follow the ridge along talus to camp 1, crossing an area of golden stone for which the route is named. Camp 1 is ca. 5030 m and has tent platforms of stone cleared. It is located approximately 300 m above the tongue of the glacier, but can be reached via talus and descended via snow. We marked the way with cairns. Porters can also load donkeys to Camp 1, which is lower than the regular route's Camp 1.

From Camp 1 head up the middle of the slope south of C1. This is rolling terrain and best climbed straight on on. It parallels the regular route and the glacier that divided them like a horseshoe. As you approach the top of the horseshoe stay near (ca. 150 meters) the edge of the drop off to the north. Large crevasses are south of the route. As you approach the top of the horseshoe you will traverse south through heavily crevassed terrain. Find a snow bridge to cross, heading south, gaining elevation as you move through a crevasses field. Continue traversing south until you can see the southern drop off. Begin climbing up to the east (towards the summit you can not see) and establish Camp 2 near the southern ridge of Mustag at ca. 6050 m.

From Camp 2 climb the ridge for 800 m, or until you see some large seracs This part of the route affords excellent views of K2. Begin traversing north away from the seracs for a good distance. You can actually traverse around this "hill" of seracs and save time and worry. This will crest in a small flat where you can establish Camp 3. the altitude here is ca. 7000 m. This area is crevassed so stake your camp well. The peak due east of C3 is Mustag South.

From C3 traverse north, loosing altitude, into a low between Mustag-Ata and Mustag-South. Out of the low, climb diagonal north by northeast up a steeper slope. Crest the ridge to a huge, wide, long slope. This slope is very broad, low angle, and not dangerous. Follow the slope to the flat summit of Mustag-Ata Enjoy a stellar view of Kongur, the Karakoram, and a sea of peaks to the east. A good view of the East Ridge is also afforded.

Scheme of programme:

Contact us:
ITMC Tien-Shan
Vladimir Komissarov, Director, Ph.D.